« TSB #01-06-01-011I - Excessive oil consumption and faith in GM2016 Elections and Conventions, DNC, RNC, both DNR. »

Batman vs Superman desk is done.

  08/12/16 19:55, by , Categories: main

If you build a Deadpool desk for a Deadpool themed room, then you have to build a Batman vs Superman desk for a Batman themed room, with a kid who likes Batman and Superman, right?

This one is the same type steel frame as the Deadpool desk, using recycled metal from someone elses projects.




In addition to the frame, were some old shelves that were glued together, and a computer rack side that was cut out for the Batman vs Superman logo.

All of it was painted, wrapped in vinyl, and embedded with a string of color changing led lights.

Then it was covered with clear epoxy from BestBarTop Epoxy.




That's the summary, but the pics and video of the build are over on Youtube.

The steps involved, besides procuring scraps and pieces to build the structure.

1. Ideas

2. Find/adjust/cut vinyl of the design in the correct size.

3. Stick the design on the side to a computer rack. Trace in case it melts away, then follow it with a plasma cutter from the inside out.

4. Trim/cut straighten the design to create a gap for the light to shine through, and trim the piece to 'desk size'.

5. Build an angle-iron frame to the correct seating height for a desk.

6. Glue together old shelves, then cut to fit the desk top metal, and base frame.

7. Transfer the design to the wood, and use a router to cut into the wood, creating a channel for the lights wider than the gap in the metal.

8. Plan and test a path for the continuous strip of lights, and route out that path, planning for a hole to pass through the back side. Then route out the back side for a place to put the controller box and power connector.

9. Paint everything once you are satisfied and have tested the light path.

10. Assemble the lights into the wood, mounting the control box, running the lights, then trimming the excess.

11. Wrap the back with vinyl, if you havent painted it, for a clean look underneath.

12. Peel and stick the lights, then get frustrated at them coming off, so you have to hot-glue them.

13. Use caulk(CLEAR) to seal the bottom of the wood to the frame, so the epoxy wont run down/drip underneath. Then check a couple hours later to see that it's still white, because in a bin of clear epoxy, you picked up white. Then paint the white caulk black once it's dry. Be sure to caulk the pass through hole, because I missed this step, I think that's where the bubbles came from that are seen when the lights are brightest.

14. Once it's masked off, and I mean everything masked off or epoxy will find a way underneath, proceed to pour your epoxy, and wait, and pour, and wait, and babysit to keep people from their urges to touch the wet/drying epoxy.

15. After it's been drying for a 5-6 hours, it's still soft enough, that if you unmask the main edge at this point, you can tear it cleanly, or you can wait 24-36 hours to unmask it at the end.

16. Unmasking, and chipping away drips from legs/feet.

17. Drill some holes in the back of one leg to zip tie the power cord to, so it's cleanly out of the way.

This entry was posted by and is filed under main.

No feedback yet



  XML Feeds

multi-blog engine